Berkshire Eagle Column: Moussaka
On one occasion when I made this when Wilson was visiting – since I know it is one of his favorites – Hank commented on how good it was and asked why I’d never made it before. And then, the very next day, it popped up in my Facebook memories that I had made one year earlier, again for Wilson, when he was here for a visit! But I suppose this means I should make it more often!
COOKING UP SOME LOVE
by Elizabeth Baer
There’s the common claim that food tastes better when it’s made with love. I’m not sure that is enough to make up for a humdrum recipe, and yet an extra measure of care and attention when cooking for someone special or for a celebratory occasion can certainly make a difference.
One of my greatest joys is cooking meals for the people I love. As much as we have wonderful restaurants in the Berkshires that we adore, when our children come home for a visit, they look forward to one of their long-standing favorites, or something they don’t get to make very often (such as grilling for those who live in an apartment), or something they’ve been wanting to try. The plans usually start with me asking, “What would you like me to make for dinner while you’re here?”
The problem is that one of our kids always says he doesn’t care! I press and I cajole and he still says I can make whatever I want. And since I love making the people I love happy through food – whether gifts of something homemade or meals together – I always try to pick one of his favorites.
Moussaka is one of them, so the last time he visited I decided to make it. And let me tell you, it is a project! When there is a storm in the forecast and you’re probably going to be stuck inside, it’s a great time to plan ahead and go get the ingredients for this dish. Because takes a while, I’ve also been known to make double and put half in the freezer.
Regardless of the effort, when he’s coming to visit, making moussaka is really a win-win since we love it too, and I am less inclined to make it when it’s just us!
MOUSSAKA
Served 4-6
INGREDIENTS:
3 medium eggplants, peeled and sliced about ¼-inch thick
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1½ pounds ground lamb
¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper, divided
2 garlic cloves minced or through a press
½ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup dry red wine
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
1 egg lightly beaten
½ cup grated Parmesan, divided
DIRECTIONS:
Sprinkle the eggplant slices with ½ teaspoon salt, stack them with paper towel between layers, and put a weight on top. I usually use a cutting board with a couple of large canned goods on top. Allow to sit for 30-45 minutes to absorb the moisture from the sliced eggplant.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the eggplant slices on foil-lined half sheet pans (it’s fine if they overlap), drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and bake for 20-30 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in large, heavy saucepan, over medium-high heat until shimmering and fragrant. Cook the onion with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper until soft and beginning to brown on the edges. Add lamb and cook until no longer pink. Add garlic, oregano, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and cinnamon and stir to combine. Deglaze with the wine and add the crushed tomatoes. Simmer for about 15 minutes until like a thick meat sauce.
Whisk the eggs in a small bowl. Melt butter in medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour until smooth. Gradually whisk in milk and let it thicken. Add one ladleful of the milk mixture into beaten egg and whisk. Now whisk the tempered egg mixture back into the rest of the milk mixture. Cook for a few more minutes, whisking while it thickens. Season with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, ⅛ teaspoon pepper, and ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg.
Spray a baking dish that will hold about 10 cups. It can be smaller and deeper or larger and shallower. Layer about half of the eggplant slices on the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Spread the meat mixture over the eggplant and sprinkle half of the Parmesan on top. Layer the remaining eggplant on top of the meat. You may not need every slice of eggplant, which is fine. Pour the custard over the meat and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.
I usually put the baking dish on a foiled-lined half sheet pan in case of any drips. Bake for 45 minutes until the custard is set. Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.