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Cooking for My Loves (Berkshire Eagle Column)

It is quite fitting that this column appeared online on Valentine’s Day – although the print version came out the day after. It gives me so much pleasure to make favorites for my family and friends, so much so that some items have garnered new names such as “Tarte Robert,” “Rachel’s Za’atar Chicken,” or “Gâteau Richard,” or sometimes it’s just “Daniel’s favorite pasta.” I can distinctly remember the joy on my mom’s face when I made her the meatloaf recipe from her childhood, which uses canned soup for the gravy. She practically lifted the plate to lick off every last taste. Apparently, my late father, who loved to cook, had been trying to elevate it by making his own sauce. A great effort, but it had lost the nostalgic joy.

Most recently, my son, Wilson, asked for creamed spinach. To be honest, I often served store-bought when the kids were young and life was busy, because not everyone loved it and I didn’t want to make multiple vegetables for dinner. So for this request, I made a homemade version into a luscious gratin.

COOKING IS MY LOVE LANGUAGE

by Elizabeth Baer

You probably had a favorite meal that you wanted every time you returned to your childhood home. Or perhaps you ask your kids what they would like when they come back, and there is something special they always request. My husband remembers how dinner the night before he left for somewhere – overnight camp, college – and the night he returned was always lamb chops, a favorite treat, and something that certainly wasn’t offered in the dining hall!

When our kids come home for a visit, if it’s not a specific holiday like Thanksgiving (turkey) or Passover (gefilte fish, matzoh ball soup, and other foods suited for that occasion), I always ask what they would like me to cook. Often the choice is something they can’t or don’t want to cook in a city apartment, such as fish or a grilled steak. Sometimes it is a childhood favorite, like chicken paprikash. But one of our kids almost always says, “You know me. I’m good with whatever.” It makes me nuts! Among my favorite things is cooking something special for those I love, and I want to make something that he specifically wants. So last month, when he was coming for a visit and asked for roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, and creamed spinach I was thrilled!

I decided this warranted creamed spinach better than the store-bought I used to get for him on occasion when he was in high school, but I decided to start with frozen chopped spinach so I could eliminate a step and drain it more easily. I added Parmesan for a bit of umami flavor, and to give it a bit more texture and some crunch, I turned this into a gratin with panko breadcrumbs on top. You could certainly try a different cheese or different breadcrumbs.

This was a great side dish for a fabulous dinner (spinach makes it healthy, right?!), and it’s definitely going into our regular rotation!

CREAMED SPINACH GRATIN

Serves 2-4, can be doubled

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained

  • ½ shallot finely minced, about 2 tablespoons, or the equivalent of another alium, such as onion or leek

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

  • Several grinds of pepper

  • 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour

  • ¾ cup heavy cream

  • 1 tablespoon cream cheese

  • 1 tablespoon sour cream

  • Generous pinch ground nutmeg

  • 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan

  • 2-3 tablespoons panko breadcrumbs

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray small baking or gratin dish with cooking spray, or use butter or oil to make clean-up easier. If you plan to put it under the broiler, be sure to use a metal pan.

Take handfuls of the spinach, and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Spread the spinach out in the prepared pan.

Melt butter in medium sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the chopped shallot until translucent and soft, and just beginning to brown on the edges. Add the flour and whisk it into the melted butter in the pan. Whisk in the cream, and allow to simmer until it thickens a bit. Add the cream cheese, sour cream, and nutmeg and whisk to combine well.

Pour the cream mixture over spinach, and use a fork to make sure some of the sauce sinks in. Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan. Top with breadcrumbs to cover. (The exact amount will depend on the dimensions of your pan.)

Bake for 15 minutes, and, if desired, place under the broiler for 1-2 minutes to brown the breadcrumbs.

My ColumnsElizabeth Baer