Cornucopia

So the first part of the word cornucopia doesn’t have anything to do with the word corn, but the second part, copia, is where we get the word copious, so if we pretend the first part is about corn, we have plenty of corn in this word, and in this time of year! I once knew someone who was doing linguistic research on puns, and he certainly would have appreciated this one. [If you’re really curious, the cornu- part, meaning horn, (ergo, ‘horn of plenty’) is cognate with horn, and the English word corn is cognate with the Latin word granum, meaning grain.]

In any event, as wonderful as it is to eat corn on the cob, we sometimes need another method of preparation, and that’s where I went with my Berkshire Eagle column this past Wednesday! 

THAT’S SO CORNY!

by Elizabeth Baer 

I think we all have our own personal favorites, things that when we see them in the store or on a menu, we have trouble resisting! Figs and duck are a couple of mine. I have tried to exhibit some restraint with figs if I can’t use them within a day or two since they can be quite delicate.

My husband, on the other hand, has little self-control when it comes to some seasonal summer treats like melon and corn. I do enjoy both, to be sure, but when it’s local and in season, he would buy corn on the cob for dinner every single night if I let him!

Of course, this can be problematic when we have company. Depending on who’s coming to dinner, it can be awkward for everyone to eat corn on the cob gracefully or elegantly. Once, when some of my Italian friends were visiting, they even ate a bagel and cream cheese with a knife and fork, as that was the only way that felt appropriate for them. Thankfully I had already decided to serve fresh, local corn in what we call “Tommy’s Soup,” from the former Elizabeth’s restaurant in Pittsfield which I’ve written about previously.

I recently devised another preparation, roasted corn salad, which will surely be incorporated into our summer rotation. Roasting concentrates the corn flavor, and with the kernels cut off the cob it’s easier to eat.

I know that “kitchen tips” articles usually advise against single-use gadgets, but I do find the two that I have from OXO for stripping corn off the cob to be of great use. During the summer, we often make more corn than we will eat, and the extra gets frozen for a sunny taste of summer during the winter, so I use these gadgets quite a bit. Another trick is to invert a small bowl inside a large bowl and hold the ear of corn on end, so when you slice off a strip of kernels they fall into the bowl.

Lime juice and avocado complement the corn in this recipe, but the possibilities are endless, and you can select something else if you want to go with what you are serving alongside the roasted corn salad.

And even if you don’t have the urge to buy fresh, local corn every day from now until the season is done, be sure not to miss this summer treat entirely! 

ROASTED CORN SALAD

Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 ears corn on the cob

• ½ sweet red, orange, or yellow pepper, cut into matchsticks

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable

• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste

• Zest from 1 lime (optional)

• 2 tablespoon lime juice

• ¼ teaspoon honey

• Pinch fresh ground pepper, plus more to taste

• Pinch cayenne pepper

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 1 avocado

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 400°F and line a half sheet pan with parchment or foil. Cut the kernels from the cobs. In a large bowl, combine the corn kernels, red pepper strips, neutral oil, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt and mix to combine well. Pour out onto prepared half sheet pan and spread into an even layer. It will not be one layer, but it is better if the corn mixture is of even thickness. Roast for 40-60 minutes, checking frequently from 40 minutes on. If you decide to make a smaller amount, begin checking the corn sooner because a shallower layer will cook faster.

Once corn is beginning to turn golden or brown on some sections of the pan, remove from the oven and allow to cool. Meanwhile whisk together the lime zest (if using), lime juice, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, honey, pepper, and cayenne. While whisking, pour in the olive oil.

Place the roasted corn into a large bowl. When ready to serve, cut the avocado flesh into cubes and add to the bowl. Pour the dressing over and toss to combine. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed.