Crab Walk (Berkshire Eagle Column)
Does anyone else remember doing a crab walk as an exercise in PE class as a kid? I sure do, but I’m not talking about that kind of crab walk!
Although, as I mentioned in my most recent Berkshire Eagle column, I had been worried about not getting my yearly soft-shell crab sandwich at the Bistro Box in Great Barrington this year, somehow I was lucky enough that they had it as a special right before we went away! So I decided that two soft-shell crab sandwiches in a week is my favorite kind of crab walk!
NOT YOUR AVERAGE EVERYDAY FARE
by Elizabeth Baer
I am sure it comes as no surprise to anyone that food matters a lot to me, and I think that mindset goes back at least a couple generations.
When I was chatting with my sister about how one of my Mother’s Day weekend treats was a soft-shell crab sandwich, we reminisced about how our father, of blessed memory, first introduced us to this seasonal treat. We also laughed about the time when I once ordered the soft-shell crab dinner special, and afterward my dad reprimanded me for ordering the most expensive thing on the menu (although, as was typical at the time, the special was verbally described without a price being given, so I really couldn’t have known). And then we really laughed about the time when he was at a seafood restaurant with my younger son who was maybe about 10 years old at the time, and Daniel wanted to order a hamburger. My dad forbade him to order a hamburger at a seafood restaurant, and so he said, “OK, I’ll have the lobster.” I am certain that at the time Daniel had no idea how much we would smile over this memory of Dad in years to come.
But back to the soft-shell crab. For several years now I have eagerly awaited the few days that the Bistro Box in Great Barrington has their soft-shell crab sandwich on the menu. I love everything at the Bistro Box, but this short-season special is truly a treat. However, we have a trip coming up, and I fear I will miss it this year, so my husband decided I should make my own soft-shell crab sandwich for dinner one night, which is still delicious, even if not as decadent as what they make at Bistro Box – and certainly not as easy as walking up to the window and ordering one!
SOFT-SHELL CRAB SANDWICH
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS:
⅔ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon taco seasoning or other seasoning mix of choice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Few grinds fresh pepper
1 egg, beaten
1 cup breadcrumbs, preferably panko or homemade, plus more if needed
2 soft-shell crabs, cleaned (ask the fishmonger to clean them for you if you’re going to make them the same day you buy them; they should not be cleaned far in advance)
2 large rolls, preferably brioche or potato
6-8 ramps or scallions
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon sauce from canned chipotles, or to taste
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
DIRECTIONS:
Combine the flour, taco or other seasoning mix, salt, and pepper in a small, shallow dish or on a plate. Place the beaten egg in a second small shallow dish, and the breadcrumbs in a third small, shallow dish or on a plate.
One at a time, pat the soft-shell crabs dry and bread them. I find it easiest to use a food service glove on my “working” hand, but it’s not necessary. First dredge the crab in the seasoned flour, tossing well to get flour onto as much surface area as possible, including between the legs. Do the same with the egg, allowing any excess to drip off, and finally in the breadcrumbs, pressing gently to help them stick. Place the soft-shell crabs on a plate in the refrigerator for 10-20 minutes so the breadcrumbs adhere better.
Meanwhile, split the rolls and drizzle the ramps or scallions with the olive oil. Grill the rolls until toasted and the ramps or scallions until charred. This will only take a short time. Chop the ramps or scallions. If you don’t have a grill or don’t want to bother with a grill, you can toast the rolls, and mince the ramps or scallions and sauté in the olive oil or even just use raw. Combine the mayonnaise with the chopped ramps or scallions and the chipotle sauce.
Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Place the soft-shell crabs flat in the pan, top side down. Allow to cook undisturbed for 3-4 minutes. Turn the crabs over carefully (I usually use a spatula and tongs) and allow to cook for 3-4 minutes on the other side. Try to make sure the breadcrumbs absorb most of the butter. When the crabs feel firm but still have a little bit of give, they are done. Remove from heat.
Spread flavored mayonnaise on the bottom of each roll. Place one crab on top of each, and add dollops of mayonnaise on top if desired. Top with the other half of the roll and serve immediately. If you have extra flavored mayonnaise left over, it’s good in coleslaw or for dipping fries.