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Fish, for a Compliment (Berkshire Eagle Column)

As much as I love it when Hank grills fish – or anything for that matter – because of both the flavor imparted by the grill and the easy clean-up, there are times cooking inside is the way to go. Thicker cuts of fish do well in the oven, so I modified a favorite sauce into more of a topping for a roasting a piece of swordfish, and this became a recent Berkshire Eagle column. This method will surely garner compliments for your fish!

GONE FISHIN’

by Elizabeth Baer

People often have a strong opinion about fish. Some affirm that they do not like fish and never will. My daughter-in-law will not eat anything from the sea (although I hope someday I can change her mind). I once had a student group in Rome, and, in an effort to keep costs down, I took them to a restaurant that mostly just serves fried baccalà (salt cod). Some of the kids promised they would eat none of it. Of course once they saw the golden crisp pieces come to the table, I heard the frequent refrain from many students whom I have chaperoned in Italy, “I usually don’t like [fill in the blank], but it’s really good here!”

Even for people who do like fish, many will never cook it at home. It can feel daunting, for sure, when you’re worried about pieces flaking off or overcooking it, which can happen quite quickly. And then there is always a concern about a fishy odor lingering in the house.

To be fair, we most often cook fish on the grill, most often a firmer fish such as salmon, swordfish, or tuna, and there’s no worry about the smell. But sometimes the weather does not cooperate, and so I turn on the oven. Recently we had defrosted a swordfish steak, and while I do have a sauce I like to spoon over grilled swordfish that includes browned butter, mustard, and capers, I wanted to make it work better for roasting.

I decided to make a “panade” of sorts – a mixture that includes bread crumbs – so it would be thick enough to sit on top of the swordfish steak as it bakes, and it was a successful effort! Be sure to line your pan with lightly-oiled parchment or foil for easier clean up. Some sauce may collect around the fish, and I love that drizzled over roasted potatoes, as seen in the photo, or steamed vegetables.

ROASTED SWORDFISH STEAK WITH BALSAMIC AND CAPERS

Serves 2-3, can be multiplied

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup

  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, preferably grainy or country-style

  • 1 tablespoon capers, drained

  • 1½ teaspoons balsamic vinegar

  • ¼ cup plain panko or other breadcrumbs

  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest, preferably grated

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter (½ stick)

  • 1 one-pound swordfish steak, ¾-1 inch thick

  • Pinch teaspoon salt

  • A few turns of fresh ground pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking pan with parchment paper or foil, lightly greased with oil or cooking spray.

Combine maple syrup, mustard, capers, and balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Combine breadcrumbs and lemon zest in another small bowl.

Place the butter into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Melt on medium heat while whisking continuously. Continue cooking until butter is browned and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Watch carefully as the butter solids can go from brown to burned quite suddenly, and remove from the heat just before it is brown enough as it will continue to cook off the heat.

Add the content of the maple syrup bowl to the browned butter. It will bubble and sputter vigorously, but keep whisking until combined. Once it stops bubbling, add the breadcrumb mixture and stir to make a thick sauce, sort of a “panade.”

Pat the swordfish steak dry and place on the greased parchment or foil. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Spread the brown butter “panade” on the top of the fish.

Roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the swordfish steak. Test for doneness by pressing lightly in the middle of the piece with a fork. It should feel that it has firmed up, but not too hard.

If serving with potatoes or steamed vegetables, you can pour on top any butter that has collected in the pan.