Getting to the Root of the Matter (Berkshire Eagle Column)
While root vegetables have risen in stature over the years, sometimes it’s tough to know what to do with them, and with radishes there are fewer ideas for cooking them. Add to that the sharper flavors of this family of plants, and I like to temper that with some sweetness. In last week’s Berkshire Eagle column, I shared a couple ideas for glazing these roots to provide a contrast of flavors.
GLAZED OVER
by Elizabeth Baer
It’s CSA season again! I love going to Woven Roots every other week (because with only two of us at home, weekly is too much food!), and dreaming up ideas when I see what they have on the tables.
This year has been a tough one for the growers here in the Berkshires. First, a few unseasonably warm days in April tricked some trees and plants into early action. I recall that one day during that time, from morning to afternoon, the trees in our yard went from bare to full of buds. The cooler weather that followed wasn’t too bad for the plants, until the hard freeze in mid-May which, it is reported, severely damaged the apple crop for the coming fall. When I went to pick strawberries recently, the owners of the farm told me that frosty night destroyed a significant portion of their crop.
And then, plants that came through the freeze had to endure weeks of dry weather with no rain, and after that we had too much rain! Farming is so hard, and we need to show admiration, support, and love for those who work to grow the food that nourishes us, body and soul.
Despite the weather challenges we have still be able to enjoy our haul from our first two Woven Roots visits this year! The early season is heavy on the lettuce, so I make two cups of dressing at a time and keep in in the fridge in a squeeze bottle. Other typical early season treats include bok choy, garlic scapes, and scallions, which make for a great stir fry.
Last, but not least, we get turnips and radishes. I always want to find something to do with radishes beside put them raw on salads, and to use a recipe with turnips that is more suited to the more tender young roots we get in the spring. I have come up with a couple favorite ways to glaze these somewhat bitter vegetables to make a sweet and savory side dish.
MAPLE GLAZED TURNIPS (OR RADISHES)
Serves 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound turnips or radishes, sliced ¼-inch thin and cut into half-moons if large
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of ground pepper
Pinch of ground nutmeg and (optional) Aleppo Pepper
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
DIRECTIONS:
Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until just beginning to foam. Add the turnips with the salt and pepper. Spread out the turnip slices into a single layer as much as possible. Stir and flip occasionally, allowing the turnips to begin to caramelize. Once the turnip slices are tender and most are brown on the edges, add the nutmeg and Aleppo pepper (if using) and stir to combine. Add the maple syrup and balsamic vinegar and cook for a few minutes, mixing well to coat the turnips with the glaze.
MISO GLAZED RADISHES (OR TURNIPS)
Serves 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound radishes or turnips cut into wedges
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water, divided
¼ cup Shaoxing wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon white miso paste
1 teaspoon sesame oil
DIRECTIONS:
Place radish wedges in a lidded medium sauté pan and add ¼ cup water, Shaoxing wine, butter, and soy sauce. Bring to a low simmer and cook, covered, for 15-20 minutes until the vegetable wedges are tender.
Mix the miso paste and the sesame oil with the remaining tablespoon of water in a small cup. Add to the radishes, and continue to cook uncovered, allowing the liquid to reduce to a glaze.