Hard Cider House Rules (Berkshire Eagle Column)
Although I have not seen the movie, we here in Lenox, MA have a connection to The Cider House Rules because a local landmark, Ventfort Hall, a gilded era “cottage,” served as the exterior set for the movie.
In any event, the column I wrote for this past week’s Berkshire Eagle offered three recipes using hard cider. I have long enjoyed cooking with hard cider, and it’s becoming much easier to find with more and more producers of fermented beverages.
Between the first recipe here (hard cider gravy) and the stuffing and cranberry chutney in the blog post from a few days ago, you’ve got some Thanksgiving staples covered!
IN-CIDER TIPS
by Elizabeth Baer
With Thanksgiving around the corner, I am once again promoting, to anyone who will listen, the idea of using hard cider instead of stock for making gravy. I have been doing this for years, and my family loves it so much I always have to make a lot of it!
Once, some time ago, I was having trouble finding hard cider and had to resort to a national brand. It was definitely not as good. Imagine how delighted I was to meet Matt Brogan of the Berkshire Cider Project at the Massachusetts Cheese Festival, held at High Lawn Farm this fall! We chatted about using hard cider in cooking. A few weeks later I went to North Adams to visit their facility at Greylock Works and had a long conversation with Matt’s wife, Kat Hand, about their cider story.
For so many of us, life unfolds differently than we anticipated, and this likewise has been true for Kat and Matt. It started with a cider-making kit as a gift to Matt. Their interest in hard cider grew, and soon they were taking the leap to making hard cider professionally - what started as a hobby had become their work and their passion. Their cidery and tasting room are now located at Greylock Works in North Adams, where you can stop in for tastings or a glass of hard cider, local cheese plates, and bottles to-go. You can also find their ciders at many stores and restaurants across the Berkshires.
We are so lucky in our region to have producers like Kat and Matt. Not only is it wonderful to have locally made, small-batch, artisanal cider, they also partner with so many orchards and others in the area, supporting growers in the region. We all know the late frost in May of this year was devastating to many apple orchards, but it’s fine to make cider with imperfect, frost-damaged apples! In addition, every year the Berkshire Cider Project makes a community cider with whatever apples anyone brings to them, and so every year the “cidrage” is entirely different. In addition, many of our local historic sites have apple trees and they have partnered with places such as Hancock Shaker Village and Arrowhead to make some special, very small-batch hard ciders.
I have written here before about making gravy, and I offer that again here, along with instructions in case you don’t have pan drippings or want to make a vegan gravy. Feel free to double or triple the recipe and keep some in the freezer for the next time you want a little gravy without the effort of making it from scratch. I’ve also made wonderful poutine with duck fat oven fries, cider gravy, and cheese curds.
Another recipe I’ve enjoyed is sausage and cabbage braised in hard cider. This recipe has the flexibility to work well with sausage made from any number of meats, and even with vegan sausage. I most recently made it with an apple and sage vegan sausage which would be a great Thanksgiving main for your vegan and vegetarian guests.
My third recipe suggestion here is a potato gratin with a cider-based cheddar sauce instead of cream. This sauce is quite versatile and can also be used to make Welsh rarebit (a dish in which the cheese sauce is traditionally made with beer) or presented in a fondue pot with various breads, and cooked sausages and vegetables for dipping.
Whatever recipe you decide to try, be sure to have some hard cider to enjoy with your meal!
HARD CIDER GRAVY
(With Thanksgiving in mind, if you want my recipes for stuffing and for cranberry chutney, click here.)
Makes about 1½ cups of gravy, can be doubled or tripled
INGREDIENTS:
Pan drippings from roast turkey, chicken, pork, etc. or 2 tablespoons butter or canola oil
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups hard cider
DIRECTIONS:
Place the roasting pan on a large burner, taking care to remember it may be hot if it has come right out of the oven. If you have no drippings or want a vegetarian or vegan gravy, melt the butter or heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan.
Add the flour and whisk to combine with the drippings or butter or olive oil. If desired, keep whisking until the roux becomes light brown.
Pour the cider into the fat and flour mixture and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer and continue to whisk and cook until the gravy thickens.
Pour through a strainer, if desired, to remove any lumps or bits that were stuck to the pan.
HARD CIDER BRAISED SAUSAGE AND CABBAGE
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS:
4 sausages, meat or vegan, preferably a flavor choice that will work with cabbage and cider
2 tablespoons butter or canola oil, plus more if needed
1 medium onion, sliced into half moons
1½-2 pounds cabbage (green, red, or Savoy), core discarded, leaves shredded
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
A few grinds of pepper
Pinch ground nutmeg
2-3 whole allspice berries (optional)
¾ cup hard cider
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Melt butter or heat olive oil in an ovenproof sauté pan with an ovenproof lid, or a Dutch oven would work, too. If using vegan sausages, check the package label for any instructions. Brown the sausages on all sides and remove to a plate.
Add more butter or oil if needed and add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Sauté until soft and translucent and beginning to brown. Add the cabbage and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. If you need, add the cabbage in batches, adding more as the shreds wilt and soften.
Once the cabbage has fully cooked down, add the nutmeg, allspice berries and the cider. Scrape up any browned bits stuck to the pan.
Return the sausages to the pan, cover, and cook in the oven for 30 minutes, checking after about 15 minutes to make sure the liquid has not reduced too quickly. (If so, add more cider or some water.)
Serve with something to absorb the sauce, such as mashed potatoes.
HARD CIDER POTATO GRATIN
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ cups hard cider
4 ounces Cheddar cheese, shredded
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
Pinch white pepper, or a few grinds of fresh pepper
Pinch ground nutmeg
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, cut into ¼-inch slices
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a gratin dish with cooking spray for easier cleanup.
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the flour and whisk to combine. Pour in the cider and continue to whisk until the roux and the cider are fully incorporated.
Add the shredded cheese and whisk until melted. Add ¼ teaspoon salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Arrange one layer of overlapping potato slices on the bottom of the gratin dish. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and pour over about ⅓ of the cider-cheese sauce. Repeat to make three layers of potatoes.
Bake for 1 hour and allow to cool 15 minutes before serving.