L’Shanah Tovah!
So much in the world feels so weighty right now, like we are holding our collective breath, waiting for the other shoe to drop. Yet it is also the time of year we can think about new beginnings and bolster our hopes for a better year ahead.
The Jewish calendar is about to mark Rosh Hashanah, the New Year, followed ten days later by Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, clearly a time of new beginnings. In addition, having worked in the school world for my career, I still consider the fall to be the onset of a new year.
The recipe from last week’s Berkshire Eagle features one of the traditions of Rosh Hashanah, apples and honey, as a way of wishing for a sweet new year. But whether you celebrate Rosh Hashanah or not, this vegan dish highlights the produce of the season, and as the days get cooler, there’s nothing quite like taking the chill off with a long braise in the oven.
FOR A SWEET NEW YEAR
by Elizabeth Baer
A couple of weeks ago, I was honored to speak at the weekly kosher luncheon held at Congregation Knesset Israel, sponsored by the Jewish Federation of the Berkshires and Elder Services of Berkshire County. Rabbi Daveen Litwin, the director of community engagement and programming, came up with a theme for the month of September that would connect with the upcoming High Holy Days and highlight local food writers. As one of the Berkshire Eagle food columnists, I was asked to participate, and immediately said yes!
Each week a different food writer was asked to offer a recipe, which the program’s chefs expertly prepared for the participants. (Those who cannot be there in person can get their lunch delivered or have someone pick it up.) During the meal, I talked about how I came to be a food writer, recipe tester, and editor, and the ensuing discussion was wonderful. The program was so well-organized and such a pleasure!
For the upcoming holidays (Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, and Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement), my dish, lemon chicken with za’atar, was suggested as a pre-fast Yom Kippur entrée, and I mentioned my recipe for vegan tzimmes as a perfect side dish. I like to add apples and honey to my tzimmes, which traditionally symbolize our hopes for a sweet new year, and I told the group I would write it up for my next column, so here it is. (I promise I’ll write about the lemon za’atar chicken another time!)
Quite often tzimmes means a braise that includes beef, but I prefer a vegan version as a side for chicken. I also like to use apple cider for the liquid (as opposed to broth, which is sometimes chicken), so this will have you covered if you have someone at your table who eats vegan. (Note that some vegans do not eat honey, and also babies under one year old should not eat honey, even if it is cooked. To adjust for this, maple syrup is a great substitute and very New England!)
While you could make this on top of the stove, it would have to be watched closely, so I prefer to cook it in the oven which means I only have to check it occasionally. The goal is for the butternut squash and sweet potato to get soft enough to fall apart while the carrots still hold their shape.
Enjoy this dish with wishes for a Shanah Tovah (a good year) or just to delight in the best produce of the season.
VEGAN TZIMMES
Serves 6-8 as a side dish
INGREDIENTS:
1 large leek or 1 medium onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 medium sweet potato, about 10-12 ounces
3 huge carrots, or 5 large carrots, about 1-1¼ pounds, peeled and cut into large chunks
10-12 ounces butternut squash, peeled and cut into large chunks (or buy pre-cut)
⅔ cup fresh apple cider, plus more if needed
8-10 prunes cut in halves or quarters depending on size; or use an equivalent of whatever dried fruit you prefer
3 tablespoons honey or maple syrup
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground ginger
Generous pinch fresh ground pepper
2 apples
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Leeks can hide soil between layers, so if using a leek, it is important to clean it well. Cut the leek lengthwise and examine for any trapped dirt. If necessary, rinse those sections under cold running water and pat dry. Discard the root end, and slice the leek halves into thin half-moons, cutting all the white portion and as much of the light green as possible. Do not use the tough, dark green portions. If using an onion, cut into medium dice.
In a medium Dutch oven or large pot with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering and fragrant. Add the leeks or onion and salt, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent. Peel the sweet potato and cut into large chunks. (To avoid browning, don’t do this ahead of time.) Add the sweet potato, carrots, and squash, and stir to combine. Add the cider, dried fruit, honey, and spices. Stir to combine and bring to a boil.
Remove from the heat, cover, and place in the oven. Bake for 45-60 minutes, checking from time to time, and adding more cider or some water if too much of the liquid has evaporated, which will depend on how tight the lid covers the pot.
After the sweet potatoes and squash have become quite soft, core the apples and cut into medium chunks. Add to the pot and stir to combine. Cook for 10-15 minute more. By this point the apple will have fully softened and begun to disintegrate. Stir to combine so that the softened sweet potato and squash sort of hold the carrot and fruit pieces together. Serve hot or warm.