Moo Shu Chicken – Sort Of

We got a beautiful head of napa cabbage from our CSA farm share, along with some sugar snap peas, so my thoughts turned to something Asian. Napa cabbage plays a starring role in most moo shu recipes, and we had some boneless chicken thighs in the freezer, so I started to think about that. Combining a few different recipes, as I often do, with some additional ideas of my own, the plans were coming together. Except for the moo shu pancakes.

In normal times, we would have made it an event for the day to drive to Albany, visit a few stores, eat at an interesting restaurant, and stop at the huge Asian supermarket on Central Avenue to find moo shu pancakes and any number of other hard-to-find Asian ingredients. But nothing these days is normal, and it seemed like a bit too much to drive that far for only one item that we really needed.

One of my older cookbooks, Nina Simonds’ A Spoonful of Ginger, suggested flour tortillas as a substitution, no doubt because back when it was written, more than 20 years ago, it was even more difficult to find Asian ingredients. With a great deal of trepidation, I decided to try it.

Although the tortillas were certainly not the real thing, they weren’t bad, and with the other ingredients, which we already had in the house, we definitely got a taste of what we miss about dining out. In these difficult times, I feel so fortunate to have options, and though I hope we will soon be back to our usual adventures and I can get real moo shu pancakes, I will happily do this again in the meantime.

Moo Shu Chicken

Serves 3-4

The mise-en-place with Hank’s new Prepdeck!

• 3 Tablespoons soy sauce, divided

• 2½ Tablespoons Shaoxing wine or rice wine, divided

• 1½ teaspoons sesame oil, plus more to drizzle

• 1 Tablespoon cornstarch

• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces

• 1½ Tablespoons Chinese sweet bean sauce

• 4 Tablespoons canola or peanut oil, or more as needed

• 1 egg, beaten

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1-2 Tablespoons minced ginger

• 2 scallions, white and green parts, chopped

• 6-8 shiitake mushroom caps, sliced

• 2 cups sugar snap peas, cut in half (optional; I had some so I used them!)

• 1 small head napa cabbage, sliced thin, about 5-6 cups

• 6-8 flour tortillas (or moo shu pancakes, if you can get them)

• Hoisin sauce for serving

In a medium bowl, combine 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1½ tablespoons Shaoxing wine, sesame oil, and cornstarch. Add the chicken and toss to combine.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining tablespoon soy sauce, tablespoon Shaoxing wine, and the sweet bean sauce.

In a wok or large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons oil over high heat until shimmering. Add the chicken and stir-fry until fully cooked, about 3-5 minutes. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, allow to heat, then add the egg and scramble until the egg is just set. Remove to the bowl with the chicken.

Add the last tablespoon of oil and heat to shimmering. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring constantly, for about a minute. Do not allow to burn. Add the scallions, mushrooms, and snap peas, and stir-fry until softened, adding a bit more oil if needed. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted.

Return the chicken and egg to the pan and stir to combine. Add the sauce mixture and toss until the flavors combine and all is warm through. Depending on how much liquid the vegetables give off, you may need to add a tablespoon of water, but be patient before you decide whether you will need this so it does not become too watery. Drizzle a bit of sesame oil over the top.

Place the tortillas on a plate between moistened paper towels and microwave for 30 seconds. Bring the tortillas and the moo shu mixture to the table, along with hoisin sauce. Each diner should take a tortilla, spread about a tablespoon of hoisin sauce down the middle, then add some of the moo shu mixture. Fold in one edge, then wrap the tortilla and eat. It will be messy, but good!