Nena’s Peas with Mushroom & Water Chestnuts
Pearl was my mother’s mother, whom we grandchildren called Nena (something the eldest cousin came up with, I suppose) and she was a phenomenal cook. I still have a tiny little notepad holding some of her recipes, with some random slips of paper tucked inside scribbled with more recipes, most with the sort of skeletal instructions for someone who is so skilled she doesn’t need to be told what to do. In fact, these recipes are not even her favorites, the ones she made for us over and over, for which she needed nothing written down.
One time, some years ago, my mother was watching me prepare vegetables for some recipe or another – I have no recollection what. She said I reminded her of Nena, the way I was paying attention to each piece before cutting it, noticing and removing any damaged areas. To me, that was such a treasured compliment – to see a reflection of Nena, such a wonderful cook, in what I was doing, and to recognize my appreciation for my produce, just like Nena.
Nena had a way of dressing up humble frozen peas for Thanksgiving dinner. Up to now, I had always reserved this recipe for the Thanksgiving table, which is so often a place where families indulge in their food nostalgia. But, like so many others, I have increased my stock of frozen vegetables these days, and so I pulled out this recipe to make this vegetable a bit more special, and happily remembered Nena as I did.
Nena’s Peas with Mushroom & Water Chestnuts
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, or olive oil for a vegan version
8 ounces sliced mushrooms, white, baby bella, or, if you’re feeling extravagant, shiitake
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 pound frozen peas
1 can (8 ounces) sliced water chestnuts, drained
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
¾ cup chicken or vegetable broth
Melt the butter a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and sauté, stirring frequently. At first, the mushrooms will absorb the butter and it might seem like you need more, but resist the urge to add additional butter. The mushrooms will eventually give up their moisture, and then it may seem like they are too wet. But just be patient, and eventually the liquid will cook away and they will get brown and crispy on the edges. (I clearly remember Nena explaining this to me about sautéing mushrooms!)
Add the peas and continue to sauté, stirring frequently until the peas are warmed through, then add the water chestnuts.
Make a slurry by mixing the cornstarch and broth in a small measuring cup. (I often freeze broth in ½-cup containers and will just dilute one of those with ¼ cup water.) Add the slurry to the pan and cook until the liquid warms through and makes a gravy-like consistency.