Penne alla Vodka
About a gazillion years ago, I spent the fall semester of my senior year in Rome. I studied at the Intercollegiate Center for Classical Studies, at Via Algardi 19, on the Gianicolo, Bus 75 from the center of the city. Known as the Centro, this phenomenal program allows students to spend a semester studying the ancient city both in the classroom and in the field, so to speak. In addition to seeing what seemed like every single ruin in the city proper (although it probably wasn’t), we had field trips to sites outside the city, including a two-week excursion to Sicily and southern Italy.
Because of my time at the Centro, when I take my own high school students to Rome I still can get around on foot and the city buses with ease, and, in addition to the expected places, I also take them to some lesser known spots, such as the Arch of the Argentarii and the stone which some believe was part of Hadrian’s temple to his mother-in-law. (In my notebook from the Centro, which I still have, I noted my professor said, “skimpiest Roman ruins award.”)
It should hardly come as a surprise that I reveled not only in the ancient sites, but also the fantastic food we ate over the course of those 4+ months. One of those dishes I first had in Rome all those years ago was penne alla vodka. Some people question whether it is authentically Italian or is actually Italian-American, but regardless of its origins, I know I first tasted it in Rome.
After graduating from college, I began cooking on my own even more, and I was determined to learn how to make this dish. In the days before the internet could produce more recipes than you could count, this was not an easy task. I remember checking the index of every Italian cookbook at bookstore after bookstore, searching for this recipe, until I finally found one.
Although this recipe originated with The New Complete Book of Pasta by Maria and Jack Scott, I’ve changed it along the way. There are many pasta alla vodka recipes out there, but this one differs in that you burn off the vodka before adding in the other ingredients. Most importantly you will need a very long wooden spoon for this step! Mine is 20 inches long, and wood is important because it won’t conduct the heat so you won’t burn yourself! But this recipe truly is worth it!
NB: I like to infuse the vodka with some crushed red peppers, so you will want to do that a few days ahead of when you plan to make it.
Penne alla Vodka
Serves 4-6
Pepper Vodka
4 ounces vodka
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
Add the pepper to the vodka and let sit for a few days.
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2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 thin slices of pancetta (bacon can be substituted), omit for vegetarian version
2 cups canned tomato purée (crushed tomatoes don't work as well in this dish)
1 pound penne rigate
2 Tablespoons butter
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup grated Parmesan
Chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional – if you have it on hand, it’s a nice touch)
Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering and fragrant. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat begins to render. (If you use bacon you probably will not need the olive oil.) Add tomato purée and heat through. Lower the heat to keep warm while you cook the pasta.
Cook penne according to the package directions. Drain the penne in a colander, shaking it out well to get rid of excess water, and return to the pot in which you boiled the pasta. (If there is too much water, the vodka won't light well.)
Pour vodka over the pasta and, standing back, ignite, preferably with an extra-long match or lighter. With a very long wooden spoon, stir until the flames subside. Add the butter and stir until it melts. Add the tomato purée, cream, and Parmesan and mix well. Garnish with parsley if desired and serve immediately.