We here in the Berkshires could feel confused that it’s spring. We still have mornings in the 20s and snow flurries flying. But a friend told me where I could find ramps, also known as wild leeks, bright green and ready for foraging. Ramps don’t like the heat, and it will soon be past their season, so I headed out to gather a dinner’s worth of this spring delicacy.

I decided it was time for pasta in our dinner rotation, and with plenty of fresh eggs from the farmer we know, I thought the ramps would add nice flavor to a plate of carbonara.

I know full well that there are serious disagreements and arguments about carbonara, and what does and doesn’t belong in it. I do not pretend to have any definitive answer on that, but I do know that I love the rich egg combined with salty guanciale (if I can find it) or pancetta (which I usually have and use most often) or bacon (in a pinch).

It took me a long time to figure out how to make it without the eggs getting scrambled when mixed with the hot pasta. I once heard that some people added cream to the eggs because the fat in the cream somehow protects the egg from getting cooked. But then I thought why not use the fat from cooking the pancetta?

For the ramps, I cooked them in the same pan with the pancetta, adding the thicker stems first, then the greens at the very end. If you are lucky enough to be able to forage for some ramps, give this a try; but of course, if you can’t get your hands on them, just omit from the recipe below, and your carbonara will still be great without them!

Pasta Carbonara with Ramps

Serves 2

1 Tablespoon olive oil (although you may not need it if using bacon)
2 ounces pancetta (about ½ of a thick slice) cut into ¼-inch cubes, or guanciale or bacon
1 small bunch of ramps, about 20 stems
1 egg
2 egg yolks (save the whites – you can freeze them – and when you have enough, make financiers!)
¼ cup grated Parmesan
¼ cup grated pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
Fresh grated pepper
8 ounces pasta (half a box)

Put a pot of salted water on to boil.

Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmering and fragrant. (If you are using bacon, you may not need the oil.) Add the pancetta and sauté until the fat begins to become translucent. Cut off the stems of the ramps and add to the sauté pan and cook, stirring frequently.

Meanwhile, whisk together the egg, egg yolks, grated cheeses, and plenty of pepper. Warm a large bowl in which to toss the pasta, either with hot water (be sure to drain it and dry it) or by putting it near the stove.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package directions.

Check on the pancetta and ramp stems. Cut off another 1-2 inches from the ramps, and put the part that still has some thicker portions into the sauté pan and stir occasionally. If needed, turn down the heat while the pasta cooks.

When the pasta is 1-2 minutes from being done, add the topmost portion of ramp leaves to the sauté pan, and stir until they are wilted.

When the pasta is al dente, reserve a small amount of pasta water in case it’s needed. Move the pasta pot right next to the sauté pan and remove the pasta directly from the water into the sauté pan with the pancetta and ramps, using tongs for a strand pasta, or a spider or strainer for a shape. Stir to coat the pasta with the fat in the pan.

Place the pasta in the warmed serving bowl. Add the egg mixture and stir to combine thoroughly. You may need to add some reserved pasta water. (I find this sometimes has to do with the pasta shape and its surface area. The same weight of pasta will have different surface area coming in contact with the sauce depending on the shape.)

Add more fresh ground pepper and serve immediately with additional grated pecorino Romano.

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Ramps! (And a Carbonara Recipe With or Without Them)