Tommy’s Soup
I’ve been working my way through seasonal treats I froze last summer, and one of the things I found tucked in the back of our freezer in the garage was another bag of frozen corn. Every time Hank and I get corn during the summer, whether from Kinderhook Creek Farm in Stephentown, New York or Noble’s in Pittsfield, Massachusetts or any number of other local farms, we always get half a dozen ears even though we know we won’t eat it all. I cut whatever is left off of the cobs, measure the amount, and freeze it in labeled zipper bags.
Over the course of the winter, I might cook a bag of corn as a side dish or make corn chowder, and sometimes I make this incredibly easy soup.
The inspiration for this soup comes from Elizabeth’s restaurant in Pittsfield, a quirky place across from the railroad tracks near where the old GE plant was. The restaurant is owned and run by Liz and Tom, and the kitchen has always been open and visible to diners on the first floor, long before open kitchens were a thing. They don’t take credit cards, but will take I.O.U.s – really they do! The focus of the menu is Italian, but there are always amazing specials for which Tommy often gets inspiration from his Middle Eastern heritage. Just as likely, though, you might hear about a meatloaf special with mushroom gravy and a vodka cranberry chutney.
No matter what you order, every table gets the house salad, served family style in a stainless steel bowl, which changes with the season and is full of greens, fruits, cheeses, and other vegetables, dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette. We never finish the salad, and although it has dressing, it still holds up well enough for us to bring it home for lunch the next day.
Another feature which makes this restaurant special is how many of the staff stay on for years. Restaurant work is hard, and it’s worth paying attention to any place that retains most of its staff over the years.
This soup is frequently in the rotation at Elizabeth’s, but I’m not even sure what they call it. At our house, we just call it Tommy’s soup. The waitstaff has always listed the ingredients, and Tom once said to me that I could just purée canned whole tomatoes in a blender or food processor. But that’s all I’ve had to go on. Tommy has his magic, and when we can go to restaurants again, it is certainly worth going to Elizabeth’s to enjoy his special version. But for the time being, here’s an approximation of this easy, vegetarian, and even vegan-adaptable soup.
Tommy’s Soup
Serves 6-8, but also reheats well and can be frozen, so don’t worry about the quantity.
2 cans (28-ounce) whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano style
1 can (14-ounce) coconut milk, whisked to combine if separated
2 teaspoons curry powder, or to taste
2 cups corn kernels, preferably cut from the cob, although store-bought frozen works, too
½ cup heavy cream, omit for vegan
Purée the tomatoes with their juices in a food processor or a blender until fully smooth. Pour into a medium saucepan and begin to cook over medium heat. Add the coconut milk to the pot and continue to cook until it begins to simmer.
Add the corn and the curry powder, and continue to cook until hot, stirring frequently so it doesn’t boil. Add the cream if using and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning by adding more curry powder if desired. (Different brands and different combinations of spices can have vastly different flavors and heat, so it is impossible to give an amount that will always work.)
Serve warm.