Variations on a Theme (Berkshire Eagle Column)
I think chicken soup may be universal, but with myriad variations in every corner of the world. In this past week’s Berkshire Eagle column, I wrote about how I make chicken broth, plus three different ways to make the broth into a soup. Buying a carton of broth is absolutely fine, too, especially if you’re nursing a cold and don’t want to take much effort.
All of the suggestions here add some protein to make it a more hearty bowl, to give you some strength as you combat those nasty winter germs.
HOT COLD COMFORT
by Elizabeth Baer
Grandchildren bring joy…and germs! Especially if they go to daycare! After a week of helping with our six-month-old granddaughter while her mom was on a work trip, her father and I came down with nasty colds. She herself was only mildly sick, but enough to make clear that this ‘gift’ was from daycare. Soon after, I saw on social media that one of my former colleagues came down with the flu and strep throat the first day of her February vacation! (I’ve heard it said that schools need the February break to clear out all the germs going around. I leave it to health professionals to endorse or refute that sentiment, but in all my years teaching, it often seemed accurate.)
Time to make some chicken soup! I know there’s plenty of info out there, both scientific and anecdotal, on the healing properties of chicken soup, often called Jewish penicillin, and it exists in variations all over the world. While tasty at any time, is especially soothing when you’re sick.
I always have homemade chicken broth in the freezer, and offer my “recipe” below, but it’s perfectly fine to use store-bought. With that in mind, in addition to instructions for broth, I’m giving several ideas to enrich your soup. You can also adapt these ideas to be vegetarian with vegetable broth.
If you’ve caught one of the germs going around these days, I hope this makes you feel better; and if you’re not sick, it’s all still delicious!
CHICKEN BROTH
As much as it makes
INGREDIENTS:
Chicken bones and/or bone-in chicken pieces, at least 2 pounds
Cold water
2-3 onions, skins attached, cut in half through the root end
1-2 carrots, cut in chunks
1-2 stalks celery, cut in chunks
1-2 parsnips, cut in chunks, optional
Few sprigs parsley, optional
10-12 whole peppercorns
1-2 bay leaves
Kosher salt
DIRECTIONS:
There are very precise recipes for chicken broth, but it’s really meant to be made from what you have leftover, so precision feels counterintuitive here. Any time you have chicken bones, add them to a bag in the freezer. We often buy a whole chicken, ask the butcher to cut it up, and save the backbone, which, likewise, goes into the freezer. If you can get your hands on chicken feet, the boniness will give it good flavor. If you have none of these, buy a 2-3 bone-in chicken breasts. Place the bones and/or meat in a large pot. Add cold water to cover by about 2-3 inches, but no more than ¾ full.
Place on the stove over high heat. As it comes to a boil, keep watch for any foam and impurities that rise to the surface. The foam can create a situation that causes the stock to boil over, and, trust me, it’s a mess. Skim foam with a shallow spoon or strainer and discard. (I usually keep a small bowl for this and pour it out when this task is done.)
Once it seems like there’s little to no foam coming to the top, add the remaining ingredients and about a tablespoon of kosher salt. Once the whole thing comes to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer. Allow to simmer uncovered for a couple hours.
Check it periodically, and after it looks like it has some good color, taste it. Adjust the salt as needed, and if it tastes like it could get more flavor, let it keep going.
Once you’ve decided it’s done, allow to cool slightly, then remove the large pieces of bone, meat, and vegetables. I use a spider strainer for this. Reserve any pieces with chicken meat and, once cool, pull it off the bones and shred it. Save for use in soup now, or freeze in a plastic bag for use in soup later.
Strain broth. At this point you can freeze it in containers, or place it in the refrigerator if you want to remove any fat that solidifies. If it goes in the fridge, once chilled, remove the fat and freeze in containers. (Sometimes I will strain it a second or third time, depending on how much stuff seems to remain in the broth, but usually you can just stop pouring before you get the the bottom of the pot.)
CHICKEN SOUP VARIATION #1
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS:
2-3 cups chicken broth, homemade or store-bought
1 carrot, peeled and chopped, optional
1 parsnip, peeled and chopped, optional
½-¾ cup shredded cooked chicken meat
½-¾ cup fine egg noodles
Grated Parmesan for serving, optional
DIRECTIONS:
In a saucepan, bring broth to a boil, with vegetables, if using. Cook until the vegetables are tender. Add the chicken and the egg noodles and simmer until the noodles are cooked and the chicken is heated through. Serve with grated Parmesan if desired.
CHICKEN SOUP VARIATION #2
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS:
2-3 cups chicken broth, homemade or store-bought
2 slices good bread
Butter
2 eggs, preferably organic and/or local
Grated Parmesan for serving, optional
DIRECTIONS:
Bring broth to a boil in a saucepan. Meanwhile toast the bread, butter generously, and place one piece in the bottom of each bowl. Carefully break one egg onto the top of each piece of toast. Gently ladle the boiling hot broth over the egg, allowing the whites to begin to cook. (If concerned about undercooked egg, scramble and then whisk as you pour into the hot soup.) Serve with grated Parmesan if desired. Break into the yolk to create a rich soup.
CHICKEN SOUP VARIATION #3
Serves 2
INGREDIENTS:
1 orange
1 lime
2-3 cups chicken broth, homemade or store-bought
6-8 slices fresh ginger, ¼-inch thick
1 cinnamon stick
1 whole star anise, optional
1 small red chili, sliced, optional
10 frozen dumplings
Optional additions include sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, chili crisp
DIRECTIONS:
Remove the zest from the orange and lime in wide strips using a vegetable peeler. In a saucepan, combine the broth, citrus zest, juice of the orange and lime, ginger, cinnamon, star anise, and chili, if using. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to maintain a simmer for 20-30 minutes.
Remove the zest and spices from the broth and add the frozen dumplings. Bring back to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Serve with any or all of the optional additions.