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All Things Food

 
Chicken Stuffed with Rosemary

The summer after 7th grade, my family spent a month’s vacation in Fano, an Italian town on the Adriatic. This was decided because the summer before 7th grade, my father had quite literally made himself ill from overwork and stress, spending every day of his vacation on the phone. My mother insisted that we go far enough away that no one would call him. (Of course these days, you’d have to go somewhere much farther, much more remote than Fano!)

It was truly a magical trip. In the days before Airbnb and Vrbo, there was the Vacation Exchange Club. The premise was that your family and another family would trade houses for an agreed upon time. There was a physical book to review the homes available, some of which were simply for rent, when the owner didn’t want to trade. This is how we found a home up in the hills above Fano that we rented for the entire month of July, along with a rental tomato red Fiat to explore the area.

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Dad’s Blue Cheese Dressing

Dad loved to cook. How often did he and my mom show up at our home for a visit, and he’d take out of his wallet a recipe, folded small, usually cut out from the New York Times, that he wanted to cook together. Or sometimes, ahead of a holiday, an envelope would arrive in the mail with several such clippings.

Because he loved to cook so much, he also loved to learn new cuisines and techniques, and he frequently took classes all over New York City. One summer, my son, Daniel, lived with his grandparents while he had an internship there, and I cherish the photo of Dad and his grandson from their pizza class, with what was surely my father’s favorite, the Nutella pizza!

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Chicken Braised in Chocolate Milk

Sometimes I hear about a recipe that just seems so strange and so outrageous that I have to try it. Such was the case when Hank found a recipe for chicken braised in chocolate milk on the Washington Post website. This actually comes from a Food 52 cookbook and is posted on their website, exactly the same as on the Washington Post. You can find the recipe by clicking on one of the links above.

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Cream Cheese and Pumpernickel Bagels

I think it’s probably been about 30 years since I bought milk from a large-scale commercial dairy at a supermarket. Back when I lived in the central part of the state, I would get milk from Cooper’s Hilltop Farm in Rochdale, MA, and from then on I’ve been devoted to buying milk and cream from small local dairies. When I first moved to Berkshire County, High Lawn Farm was still delivering milk, and I loved having milk delivery for over 10 years! Fortunately, even though the delivery service ended ,High Lawn is available at all our local markets.

The other day, I saw that High Lawn has started making cream cheese, and so I decided I needed to make bagels.

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Custard Filling for Quiche, and Today's Version

I saw it was going to be getting hot this week. Hot, humid, and sticky. So I decided I could use the oven while it was still on the cooler side and make a quiche to have for a few lunches.

In the recipe below I give the basic custard part of the filling, along with the extras I made this time. Be creative about whatever else you want to include! Many, many years ago, the first time I was in Chicago, a friend took me to Lou Mitchell’s the famous diner in the West Loop Gate. On their menu is an omelette with sausage, Cheddar, and apples. Perhaps that seems unremarkable now, but back then, adding the apple to a sausage and cheese omelette was pretty interesting and innovative, at least to me. I kept that idea in mind, and began to play with the combination of meat and cheese and fruit in quiche.

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Fajitas

Although I am by no means a food historian, I think a lot about culinary stories and the formation, transformation, and transmission of culinary traditions and even of individual recipes. Some people may think fajitas come from Mexico, but they are rather from the Tex-Mex kitchen. The dish is an offshoot of Mexican cuisine, to be sure, but Tex-Mex is a distinct and legitimate food tradition. In fact, the new cookbook Amá is specifically Tex-Mex.

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Blueberry-Rhubarb Crumb Pie, or How One Recipe Begets Another

For Thanksgiving 2019, I sent out a Google Form to our kids and their significant others that asked:

1. It’s not Thanksgiving if we don’t have ____________.

2. My favorite kind of pie is ____________.

It was going to be the first time Daniel’s girlfriend, Greta, was spending Thanksgiving with us, so I wanted to be sure to make her choice of Dutch apple pie (as well as her request for mashed potatoes, but that’s another post). But that’s never been a request before in our family! So I began my research and found some guidelines for the apple filling, but then I decided to try using the topping I had made when testing the blueberry crisp recipe* for The Berkshire Farm Table Cookbook. Everyone agreed that was an inspired idea!

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Brown Butter-Caper Sauce

We love to make this easy, flavorful sauce when we grill swordfish. I am never sure what to call it, because listing all the ingredients would be cumbersome, but individually and collectively they are all so wonderful and deserve top billing!

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Cannelloni – Recipe under construction!

I think sometimes I get a bit compulsive about not wasting food. These days, I get it, from the perspective of minimizing shopping trips and using what’s in the house. But even previously I would save little bits of this and that, and I think it became a point of pride for me when I thought of something I could make with these leftovers. How often Hank has said, “There’s nothing in the house for dinner.” And then I’ve built a dish around one item!

I also have been freezing bits and pieces of things: fennel tops for brining pork chops; citrus peels for zest; cubes or crumbs from the heel of a loaf of bread for croutons or bread crumbs. About ten days ago I made pumpkin cappellacci, and I had some pasta dough scraps left. I really could have thrown them out, but instead I worked the scraps together and put them through the pasta rollers and carefully wrapped the sheets for the freezer. Today I made them into cannelloni!

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Spicy Roasted Carrots with Tahini Butter

My friend, Carrie, recently emailed me a link to a recipe she had made for sweet potatoes with tahini butter. Also recently, I had ordered two jars of Soom tahini, which has been praised as a superior tahini by Michael Solomonov and many others. So I decided to give it a try.

The original recipe steamed or boiled chunks of sweet potatoes, not really sure which, as it seemed like more work than just baking a large sweet potato which Hank and I had planned to share. So I just drizzled the tahini butter over the sweet potato halves and I was hooked on the flavor. It was an amazing dinner with steak and the last ramps of the season, grilled, and it was the first evening warm enough to eat on the porch!

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Ersatz Paella

This is not “real” paella for several reasons. First, there’s no shellfish because Hank is allergic; second, I don’t have a paella pan; third, we don’t have the special rice for paella. The last two are probably why we will never get a real socarrat when the rice at the bottom of the pan gets a nice crust.

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Winter Squash and Pear Soup

Back when we all first started staying at home as much as possible, and not knowing how things would go as far as food shopping was concerned, we bought a few vegetables that would last, such as carrots and winter squash, and some frozen vegetables as well.

We really haven’t had any difficulty getting produce, and as a result one butternut squash was still sitting there, along with a pear from my Misfits Market box. So before the weather gets too warm, I decided to make a soup. Any variety of winter squash would work fine in this recipe.

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Chicken Paprikash

The first time I made this dish for my boys, they tasted it and glared at me. It was the look of annoyance and disbelief that I had never made it for them before! It’s now one of their favorites, a frequent request when they come home to visit.

It’s not a very difficult recipe, but you will want to get sweet Hungarian paprika for it.

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Nena’s Blueberry Crumb Cake

My mother and I have recently been discussing some of her mother’s signature recipes. She was wondering about some of the gelatin molds her mother used to make and whether I remembered them at all, or might know how to make them.

Of course that sent me to the small pile of recipes from Nena – what we cousins called our grandmother – but what I have are mostly desserts.

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Ditalini with Sugar Snap Peas and Pancetta – sort of

It’s less than a week until The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook hits the shelves! Although I probably won’t be able to see it in bookstores for a while, I can’t wait to see it on the cookbook table at Guido’s Fresh Marketplace!

One of the first recipes I tested for this cookbook was ditalini with sugar snap peas and pancetta. And then I tested it again several more times! It’s not that it is a difficult recipe – not at all. But, as with many recipes in this cookbook, Elisa and Rob wanted a vegetarian version. While conceptually this was not a challenge – mushrooms work beautifully with the flavors of this dish – writing the instructions to account for the different sequencing if you’re using mushrooms versus pancetta in a way that was clear and concise was a challenge.

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Baked Salmon with Maple-Ginger Glaze

We love salmon, and more often than not, we marinate it in the ginger sesame marinade from Ginger People and grill it outside. Sometimes, however, if it’s raining or snowing, or so bitterly cold that it will take the grill too long to heat up, we decide to Use the oven.

I wanted something that would be as easy as cooking it on the grill, and full of flavor. Eventually I ended up with this simple preparation that takes little time to put together, and then has unattended time in the oven.

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Zucchini & Mushroom Gratin

As we continue through this strange time, I find myself looking for ways to use random leftover ingredients in the freezer or how to combine various items of produce that look like they are going bad. In my last produce delivery from Misfits Market, I got a zucchini and some mixed mushroom. We had already sketched out a plan for upcoming meals, but I needed to use these items sooner rather than later.

I found a recipe in my old New York Times Cookbook for a baked zucchini and mushroom casserole with sour cream and dill. Not only did I not have any dill, the recipe said to boil the zucchini which just seemed like it would be too wet. Instead I devised a gratin that didn’t water down any of the flavors.

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1-2-3 Coleslaw (Super Easy!)

I find it interesting to observe the contradictions we sometimes see in ourselves. I spent the better part of an afternoon making homemade pasta dough, then rolling, filling, forming, and cooking pumpkin cappellacci. And yet, when I make coleslaw, I always buy a bag of the preshredded coleslaw mix at the supermarket!

I’ve been making this version for as long as I can remember, and pretty much every time we are out somewhere and a sandwich comes with coleslaw, Hank will try it (I refuse). And then Hank says, “Not as good as yours.”

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Pumpkin Cappellacci (I wish I were a Pasta Granny)

In the early days of isolation, we decided we needed to make a freezer inventory. No surprise that I found some items I didn’t remember I had. It seems last fall I froze three 1-cup portions of cooked pumpkin purée.

As I wondered what to make with it, I checked on Eat Your Books hoping to find a pumpkin recipe that piqued my interest, and I settled on pumpkin cappellacci in a recent cookbook my friend, Carrie, gave me called Pasta Grannies.

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