A long time ago, around the end of college and the beginning of graduate school, I spent three summers working on an archaeology dig in Soissons, France, a small city in Picardie, a little over an hour northeast of Paris, about halfway to the Belgian border. We were excavating the Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, an Augustinian monastery which had stood on a hill in the town. Over the years most of the stone from the Abbey had been taken or sold, but today the majestic west façade with its two Gothic towers still stands, as do the refectory and two sides of the cloister.
Read MoreBack when we first began staying at home, I decided we ought to buy some produce that would last a long time, and so I brought home a whole butternut squash. We’ve still been able to get out to the stores, albeit rather infrequently, and get perishable vegetables, so the butternut squash has been sitting there on the counter for weeks. I also found that I had a few tablespoons at the bottom of a jar of tahini and a single preserved lemon remaining in an open jar in the fridge. It was time to use things up!
Read MoreWe here in the Berkshires could feel confused that it’s spring. We still have mornings in the 20s and snow furries flying. But a friend told me where I could find ramps, also known as wild leeks, bright green and ready for foraging. Ramps don’t like the heat, and it will soon be past their season, so headed out to gather a dinner’s worth of this spring delicacy.
I decided it was time for a pasta in our dinner rotation, and with plenty of fresh eggs from the farmer we know, I thought the ramps would add nice flavor to a plate of carbonara.
Read MoreNot too long after we began staying at home, my step-daughter, Rachel, convinced me that she and I should both try Misfits Market and see what we get. Misfits Market is an online organic produce vendor where you choose what size box you want and how often you want to receive said box. You don’t get to choose what you get, but rather it’s like you own episode of Chopped whenever you get a box and have to figure out what to do with things in your box.
Read MoreI am getting so excited we move closer and closer to the publication date of The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook on May 19! And when it comes out, we will soon be seeing rhubarb in the stores, and so I wanted to offer an idea for the savory rhubarb compote recipe in the book.
Head on over to Berkshires and Beyond for today’s post – a guest post I wrote that includes not only the recipe from the book for the rhubarb compote, but also a recipe for my favorite, easy brine for pork chops!
Read MoreMy good friend, Rafi, of Hilltown Hot Pies, spends his days working with sourdough, and his nights dreaming about it. Although I think he’s a master pizzaiolo, with sourdough – which is what he likes to use for his crusts – Rafi says, one is always learning.
Last summer, with a portable propane-fired pizza oven, Rafi ran a pizza pop-up at the Dream Away Lodge in Becket, MA. We spent many warm evenings at the picnic tables out back, under the stars, filling ourselves with way too much pizza because we couldn’t choose from Rafi’s creative toppings, fresh from local farms and producers in the area.
Read MoreIt’s April 18. And it’s snowing.
I know this is not outside the realm of possibility for the Berkshires. I clearly remember an April 18 snowstorm years ago when my kids were young, there was no school, and a friend who still had to go to work dropped her kids off with me. But this year the lingering winter feels different, more oppressive. Tomorrow promises to be warmer, but today called for soup.
Read MoreAbout a gazillion years ago, I spent the fall semester of my senior year in Rome. I studied at the Intercollegiate Center for Classical Studies, at Via Algardi 19, on the Gianicolo, Bus 75 from the center of the city. Known as the Centro, this phenomenal program allows students to spend a semester studying the ancient city both in the classroom and in the field, so to speak. In addition to seeing what seemed like every single ruin in the city proper (although it probably wasn’t), we had field trips to sites outside the city, including a two-week excursion to Sicily and southern Italy.
Read MoreI think many of us have bought frozen vegetables of kinds and in amounts that we normally wouldn’t, just to make sure we will always have some vegetables in the house, and, with that thought in mind, the other day I shared my grandmother’s recipe for frozen peas. Today, I’ve got some ideas about how to dress up frozen corn.
The real seasonal treat, of course, is fresh-picked corn on the cob, steamed or boiled. But in the middle of winter frozen corn can give you a little taste of summer, and yet I found plain frozen corn a bit lacking. Thinking about how corn has a wonderful natural sweetness and works well with butter, I improvised and discovered how much better it is when you sauté the kernels in butter, rather than just putting butter on top of steamed corn.
Read MoreThe are not enough words to say how excited I am!! Elisa Spungen Bildner and Robert Bildner dropped off an advance copy of The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook this afternoon!!
It looks so beautiful, and even though I had seen the galleys when we had many conversations about the recipes and the food photographs, it’s so much more thrilling to see it bound as a book! (Check out the companion website, https://berkshiresandbeyond.com/ where you can find links to pre-order from Amazon, Indie Bound, or Barnes & Noble.)
Read MoreToday I wrote another post as a guest blogger for www.berkshiresandbeyond.com, the companion website for The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook which is due to come out on May 19, 2020. (Link to the specific post here.) This is the cookbook for which I did extensive recipe-testing and copyediting, reading each recipe at least three times, and testing well over ⅔ of the recipes in the book. I hope you’ll consider pre-ordering this book! It’s a great celebration of the farms and farmers of the Berkshires, with wonderful recipes that will give you great ideas about using the bounty of the land.
There’s a great recipe in the book for Leek Tarts with Chèvre, and a couple of weeks ago I made them for a Zoom cocktail party. But I didn’t have any leeks, and these days, I didn’t want to make any unnecessary trips to the store. So I came up with a great variation that uses maple bacon onion jam that I wrote about in this post.
Read MoreI never quite understood that saying. Said with the correct Yiddish inflection, it means something like, “Why don’t you think I’m worthy of more attention?” meaning that chopped liver would get less attention than other items on the table. But I love chopped liver! In fact, I’ve always liked liver. When I was a baby, my mother tells me, she would go to the meat counter at the small Gristedes that was around the corner from the entrance to our building, and buy one fresh chicken liver at a time, which she would feed to me with the tiniest portion of instant mashed potatoes and my grandmother’s homemade applesauce. But I know not everyone likes liver, so I hope you will indulge me this post.
Read MorePearl was my mother’s mother, whom we grandchildren called Nena (something the eldest cousin came up with, I suppose) and she was a phenomenal cook. I still have a tiny little notepad holding some of her recipes, with some random slips of paper tucked inside scribbled with more recipes, most with the sort of skeletal instructions for someone who is so skilled she doesn’t need to be told what to do. In fact, these recipes are not even her favorites, the ones she made for us over and over, for which she needed nothing written down.
One time, some years ago, my mother was watching me prepare vegetables for some recipe or another – I have no recollection what. She said I reminded her of Nena, they way I was paying attention to each piece before cutting it, noticing and removing any damaged areas. To me, that was such a treasured compliment – to see a reflection of Nena, such a wonderful cook in what I was doing, and to recognize my appreciation for my produce, just like Nena.
Read MoreOn the one hand it’s a bit disingenuous to suggest a recipe is easy – by calling it a cheater’s version – when you have to start cooking the night before. But it really is easy!
If you have the oven on for something else, toss in a couple of medium potatoes to bake. When they’re about three-quarters of the way done, take them out, let them cool, and put them in the fridge overnight. That way you won’t be starting with raw potatoes when you want to cook home fries for breakfast or brunch the next morning.
Read MoreI broke down yesterday and used the penultimate package from the freezer of Fike’s maple-brown sugar sausage. And we ate those sausages with both joy and sorrow – joy because they were so good, and sorrow because we only have one package left.
For the past few summers when we’ve rented “our” cabin on a quiet lake in Maine, we’ve been able to get all our meat at Fike’s Custom Cutting, a small butcher shop on a quiet country road in Readfield. Brandon always had such outstanding meat – steaks, burger meat, chops – and out of all the sausages he made, the maple-brown sugar sausage quickly became our favorite. Every summer we would bring home several packages to ration over the winter. These sausages have a deep, complex flavor from the maple and brown sugar, and a nice hint of spicy heat that complements the sweetness.
Read MoreA gratin of creamy, cheesy potato slices, baked in the oven until bubbling and brown on the edges, has always been a family favorite. And despite what you might think, it’s really easy, and even easier if you have a food processor. This recipe can certainly qualify as pantry cooking, since potatoes store well, as do hard cheeses. We always keep several 8 ounce bricks of Cabot Seriously Sharp Cheddar in the fridge. While heavy cream doesn’t last forever, it can be frozen. When I don’t use an entire container of heavy cream, I freeze the rest in small containers, measured out and labeled. Although defrosted cream isn’t good for whipped cream, for something like this it works fine.
Read MoreYesterday was our anniversary! We got married two years ago with family and friends in attendance, after we had been together for 18 years. So, of course we wanted to do something special, and when I checked our freezer spreadsheet, I was thrilled to see we had a rack of lamb!
Read MoreI must start off with an apology, because you probably won’t be able to make this exact recipe unless you have some yellow tomato purée in the freezer. But it was so delicious! Back in the summer when we couldn’t eat the tomatoes from our garden fast enough, I put three containers of yellow tomato purée in the freezer, and decided to use one for dinner last night. I also had a package of mixed loose sausage – mostly sweet with some hot – that must have been left over from some recipe a while ago.
Even though you probably can’t make this exact recipe, what I do want you to take away from this is some inspiration and confidence to improvise with what you have on hand.
Read MoreFor the school where I teach, today was our first official day to re-engage with our students. The way our administration set up the schedule, I only had two Google Meet sessions today, for which I only used about 30 minutes each (out of 45 minutes allotted – we are not required to keep the students online the whole time). In addition, I reformatted an assignment into a Google Form for each class. That’s all I did for work today, and I’m exhausted!
Read MoreThe text from my son, Wilson, buzzed on my wrist, “Have you posted zucchini bread yet?”
So of course that’s now a post! My kids know they can always get my attention with questions about cooking or photos of their own creations!
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